Zervò, the plateau of free-roaming horses in Aspromonte

Four horses graze freely in a grassy clearing, ringed by tall beech trees: this is the first image that sums up the Zervò plateau, at nearly a thousand metres in the territory of Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte, on the Ionian side of Aspromonte. Here the animals move between one clearing and the next without fences, while a loop trail connects Piano Rocchella to Aria di Vento, passing the Crocifisso dello Zillastro, a cross erected in memory of the battle fought here in September 1943.

Further down, the village of Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte sits on a hillside among olive groves: rebuilt after the 1783 earthquake, with the ruins of a medieval castle above the Lago stream and Corso Umberto I still at the heart of daily life today.

Our holiday homes aren't on this plateau, but on the Costa Viola, half an hour's mountain drive away: a base by the sea from which to climb up to Zervò for a day among woods and horses.

The Zervò plateau and its free-roaming horses

At just under a thousand metres, in the territory of Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte, the Zervò plateau opens into grassy clearings ringed by tall beech woods. This is where the horses that make the place unlike any other stop in Aspromonte live and graze freely: groups of four or five animals moving between one clearing and the next, without fences, used to the quiet presence of walkers and riders. Unlike Gambarie d'Aspromonte, on the Tyrrhenian side of the massif, Zervò looks out towards the Ionian Sea.

At the centre of the plateau stands the Zervò facility, run by the social cooperative Il Segno: a guesthouse, a camping and camper-van area, a hall for groups, and a riding stable offering horseback outings and lessons for anyone who has never ridden before. Meals made with local products, such as Calabrian black pork, are served in the shared space called Du Bati.

Beech woods, streams and the wildlife of upper Aspromonte

The beech woods of Zervò are, together with those of Monte Scorda, among the most notable in the whole Aspromonte National Park. Further down, between 800 and 1700 metres, the forest changes character and gives way to Calabrian black pine, the conifer that defines the classic image of Calabria's mountains. Dry-stone walls, moss, springs and small streams line the way from one clearing to the next.

The Apennine wolf (Canis lupus italicus) lives in the central-eastern part of the massif: a rare sighting, but one documented by the park's naturalists. Far more likely are traces of fox, badger, marten, wild boar and dormouse, the discreet residents of these woods. For shorter, easier routes, Aspromonte's easy trails offer comfortable alternatives, even for families with children.

The Crocifisso dello Zillastro and the Piano Rocchella - Aria di Vento loop

The trail that crosses the plateau links Piano Rocchella, at 1063 metres, to Aria di Vento, at 1024 metres: a loop of about ten kilometres, with a total elevation gain of 250 metres, manageable even for those without much hiking experience. The route touches Piano Stoccato, Serro Lungo, Piano Abbruschiato, Roccia dei Due Mari and Selvarello, alternating flat clearings with striking rock formations, with views that from Aspromonte's Ionian side stretch to the sea and, on clear days, towards Montalto and Monte Scorda.

At Piano Rocchella stands the Crocifisso dello Zillastro, erected in 1971 in memory of the battle fought right here at dawn on 8 September 1943: around 400 paratroopers of the 8th Battalion of the 185th Nembo Regiment, just back from Sicily, clashed with about 5000 Anglo-Canadian soldiers of the Edmonton and Nova Scotia regiments. In 1990 a marble stele was placed beside the cross, and in 1995 a plaque dictated by one of the survivors, Captain Paolo Lucifora.

Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte, the village among olives and mountains

Seen from afar, Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte lies on a hillside, surrounded by stretches of olive groves climbing towards the mountains behind. The village's name goes back to the cult of Saint Cristina, recorded in a Greek document from the 10th century; only in 1864 did a royal decree add 'd'Aspromonte' to distinguish it from other towns of the same name.

The village seen today is not the original one. The 1783 earthquake, which devastated the whole province of Reggio Calabria, brought down much of the settlement and caused around 800 deaths in Santa Cristina. Since then the old settlement, on the hill above the Lago stream, has remained known as Santa Cristina Diruta, while the village was rebuilt a little further down as Santa Cristina Nuova. Today it has fewer than 600 residents, down from almost 2900 in 1936.

The castle ruins above the Lago stream

On the small hill overlooking the Lago stream once stood one of Calabria's oldest castles, built for defence. It already appears in the life of Saint Elias the Younger, who is said to have stayed there between the late 9th and early 10th century, and it was fought over during the wars between the Angevins and the Aragonese. In 1495 it passed to the Spinelli family, who held the title of counts there until 1806.

The 1783 earthquake brought down the castle too, along with the rest of the old village. Today only a single tower still stands, surrounded by dry-stone walls and cultivated olive trees: the nets laid on the ground for gathering olives, propped against the stones, tell of a countryside still worked every autumn, just as it was eight centuries ago.

Corso Umberto I and daily life in the village

Corso Umberto I is the street where the town hall stands, and it remains the heart of daily life in Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte today: a clock tower marks the centre of the village, among nineteenth-century buildings lining the main street. The narrow lanes branching off the Corso lead to the old churches of the historic centre.

It's along this main street that bars, shops and evening strolls are concentrated, when families walk out and children play across its pedestrian crossings. A small village that still lives by the rhythm of the farming seasons in the countryside around it.

How to reach Zervò

From Reggio Calabria the distance is about 60 kilometres, just under an hour's drive. The most direct way is to leave the A2 del Mediterraneo motorway at Gioia Tauro, continue on the SS111 to the junction for Contrada Cirello di Rizziconi, then take the SS112bis to the hamlet of Lubrichi, before continuing on the SS112 into the village. Oppido Mamertina is just 4.5 kilometres away, Cittanova just under 15.

From Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte the road climbs further up towards the Zervò plateau, through hairpin bends set in the woods. If you'd rather not drive, you can book an organised excursion: those departing from Gioia Tauro start at 8:45 in the morning, with groups of up to 15 people.

Where to stay: our homes on the Costa Viola

Our holiday homes aren't in Zervò: they're on the Costa Viola, between Palmi, Scilla and Bagnara Calabra, on the Tyrrhenian coast. Palmi is about 16 kilometres from Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte, just over half an hour's drive along mountain roads: close enough to base yourself on the coast and drive up to Zervò for a day of walking or horseback riding, then head back down for dinner with a view of the Strait.

If you're planning your stay in this part of Calabria, you can use Palmi as your reference point and choose among our properties on the Costa Viola: you'll find the available accommodation on the page dedicated to Palmi.

Frequently asked questions about Zervò and Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte

How far is Zervò from the centre of Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte? The plateau lies uphill from the village, within the same municipality: the Zervò facility is about a ten-minute drive from the town centre.

When is the best time to visit Zervò? Spring and early autumn bring the most comfortable temperatures for walking, with the beech woods green or already turning colour; even in high summer the altitude keeps the air cooler than on the coast.

Do you need training or experience for the Piano Rocchella - Aria di Vento loop? No: with 250 metres of elevation gain over ten kilometres, it's manageable even for those who don't hike regularly, provided you wear suitable footwear.

Can you ride even if you've never been on a horse? Yes, the riding stable at Zervò offers lessons for beginners as well as outings for those with experience.

What else is there to see in the centre of Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte besides the castle? Corso Umberto I with its clock tower and nineteenth-century buildings, and the lanes of the historic centre with its old churches.

Is it worth visiting other Aspromonte towns in the same area? Yes: Oppido Mamertina is a few kilometres away, and Delianuova is another useful stop for anyone wanting to extend the trip across the Ionian and Tyrrhenian sides of the massif.