Sentiero del Tracciolino: a panoramic hike along the Costa Viola
The Sentiero del Tracciolino is one of the most captivating trails on the Costa Viola: it runs halfway up the slope, suspended between the sky and the blue of the Strait of Messina, largely following the route of the old railway that once linked Scilla to Bagnara Calabra by way of Favazzina. From here the eye takes in Sicily, Mount Etna and, on clear days, the distant outlines of the Aeolian Islands.
Walking the Tracciolino means crossing terraces planted with vines, the scents of Mediterranean scrub, short tunnels and bridges carved into the rock. It is a hike of moderate difficulty, ideal in spring and autumn, when the heat is gentle and the light is softer. At sunset, when the sea turns violet, the trail offers one of the most beautiful sights in all of Calabria.
The route and what you can see
The Sentiero del Tracciolino runs halfway up the slope between Scilla, Favazzina and Bagnara Calabra, following for long stretches the bed of the old, abandoned railway. You walk almost the whole way with the open sea below your feet and the flank of the Aspromonte at your back: a natural balcony suspended over the Strait of Messina. Ahead of you open up the Sicilian coast, the profile of Mount Etna and, when the air is clear, the Aeolian Islands on the horizon.
The route alternates open, panoramic stretches with shadier passages through the vegetation, short tunnels carved into the rock and small bridges spanning the gullies. You can walk it in full from one village to another, or choose just a section, for example starting from Favazzina, which lies in a central position. In any case it is wise to ask locally about the state of the trail, as some stretches can be affected by landslides or maintenance.
Heroic vineyards, nature and the story of the railway
The slope of the Costa Viola is shaped by terraces held up by dry-stone walls, where vines have been grown for centuries. These are the so-called "heroic" vineyards: tiny, very steep plots reachable only on foot, where every bunch of grapes has to be carried down to the valley on someone’s shoulders. From these grapes comes, in particular, the Zibibbo of Bagnara, a sweet wine tied to local tradition. All around, the Mediterranean scrub is fragrant with broom, mastic and prickly pear, while the sea is always there, a few hundred metres below.
The trail preserves the memory of the old nineteenth-century railway that ran along the coast: abandoned when the line was moved inland and into tunnels, it left behind tunnels, bridges and retaining walls now swallowed by the vegetation. To walk here is to read, step by step, the toil and the ingenuity of those who wrested from the mountain the space for the tracks and for the rows of vines.
Practical tips: when to go and how to reach the trailheads
The best time to walk the Sentiero del Tracciolino is spring or autumn: in summer the sun-facing slope can be very hot, especially in the middle of the day. It is best to set off early in the morning or in the late afternoon, so as to reach the most panoramic stretches around sunset, when the sea takes on its famous violet reflections. Bring plenty of water, hiking shoes, a hat and sunscreen: there are no refreshment points along the way.
The main trailheads are in the three villages the path connects. Scilla and Bagnara Calabra can be reached by car from the A2 "del Mediterraneo" motorway (Salerno–Reggio Calabria) and have a railway station on the Tyrrhenian line; Favazzina, a hamlet between the two, is a convenient intermediate starting point. As this is a linear route between different villages, it can be useful to plan the return by train or arrange a transfer. Before setting off, check locally that the trail is passable and choose the section best suited to your pace.