Birdwatching on the Strait of Messina: the great raptor migration
Every spring the Strait of Messina turns into one of the greatest natural spectacles in the Mediterranean. Tens of thousands of raptors returning from Africa narrow their flight front right here, where Calabria and Sicily almost touch, to cross at the shortest stretch of sea. From the heights of the Costa Viola and the Aspromonte, above Scilla and the villages overlooking the sea, you can watch honey buzzards, short-toed eagles, kites and many other species stream past in their hundreds.
No complicated gear is needed: binoculars, patience and a good panoramic vantage point are enough to witness one of the most concentrated migratory flows in Europe. This guide introduces the leading species, the best periods and the spots from which to look up, in a landscape where the mountains plunge into the sea and the Strait frames the scene.
The great migration and the leading species
The Strait of Messina is one of Europe’s gateways for the raptors that, in spring, leave their African wintering grounds to reach the continent’s breeding areas. To avoid long crossings over open sea, these species soar by riding the thermals over land and seek the narrowest passages: the Strait, just a few miles wide, is one of them. The undisputed star is the honey buzzard (Pernis apivorus), which passes through above all between the second half of April and May, sometimes in large flocks. It is joined by the short-toed eagle (Circaetus gallicus), a large snake-eagle with slow, hovering flight, as well as the black kite, the marsh harrier, the harriers and other smaller raptors. Watching them gain height in spirals and then glide towards Sicily, or conversely come ashore on the Calabrian coast, is an experience that stays with you.
Where and when to watch the raptors
The prime time is spring, roughly from April to mid-May, when the raptor passage peaks; a more modest movement also occurs in autumn. The best vantage points are on the hills behind the Costa Viola, between Scilla, the Piani della Corona and the first spurs of the Aspromonte, where the elevation lets you watch the raptors at eye level as they climb up from the sea. Mornings are often the most favourable hours, when the sun warms the slopes and the thermals the birds use to gain height begin to form. It is worth bringing binoculars (and, if you wish, a spotting scope), layered clothing, water, a hat and sunscreen, because watching takes time and attention. Always respect the places and the animals: keep your distance, do not disturb birds in flight and follow the guidance of any organised watch points.
Nature and landscape between the Costa Viola and the Aspromonte
Part of the appeal of birdwatching over the Strait lies in the natural theatre that hosts it. Here the Aspromonte drops steeply towards the Tyrrhenian Sea and shapes the Costa Viola, where slopes planted with vines and olive trees plunge into the water in rocky cliffs and small, hard-to-reach beaches. The view takes in Sicily, the outline of Mount Etna and, on clear days, the Aeolian Islands on the horizon. Climbing inland, the woods and pastures of the Aspromonte offer precious habitats for many breeding species and a coolness that contrasts with the coast. A day devoted to the raptors pairs naturally with discovering the villages overlooking the sea, the panoramic trails and the local cuisine, made of fish from the Strait, hillside vegetables and produce from the hinterland. It is a slow, authentic way to experience Calabria, where nature, landscape and sky meet above one of the most fascinating narrows in the Mediterranean.