Where to eat in Scilla: restaurants, Chianalea and Costa Viola swordfish

Scilla is one of the most charming villages on the Costa Viola, where Calabrian cuisine blends with the sea of the Strait of Messina. In Chianalea, the old fishermen's quarter nicknamed "little Venice" for its houses built right on the water, restaurants serve the freshest fish, homemade pasta and the famous swordfish, symbol of local tradition. Among the alleys of the centre and along the Marina Grande seafront you'll find family trattorias, fish restaurants and spots to enjoy the authentic flavours of Scilla's cuisine, often with views of Ruffo Castle and Sicily on the horizon.

• Trattoria Pasta e Vita — In the heart of Scilla, a fishing village on the Costa Viola overlooking the Strait of Messina (Stretto di Messina), Trattoria Pasta e…
• Street Good — In the heart of Scilla, a fishing village overlooking the Costa Viola ('Purple Coast') and the Stretto di Messina (Strait of Messina),…
• La Perla Nera Ristorante / Pub — La Perla Nera looks out over the sea in Scilla, a fishing village on the Costa Viola (the 'Violet Coast') along the Strait of Messina…
• Ristorante La Fiocina — Ristorante La Fiocina sits on Via Annunziata, in the heart of Chianalea di Scilla, the ancient fishing quarter overlooking the Strait of…
• Ristorante Glauco - Terrazza sul Mare — In the heart of Chianalea, Scilla's 'little Venice' where the houses rise straight from the water, Ristorante Glauco - Terrazza sul Mare…
• Patriarca Food — Patriarca Food, also known as Patriarca II, sits in the heart of Chianalea, the picturesque district of Scilla nicknamed Calabria's…
• Osteria del Centro — In the heart of Scilla's old town, on Via Bastia 7, Osteria del Centro welcomes its guests just steps from the sea. Scilla is a fishing…
• Nautilus - Taverna del Borgo — In the heart of Chianalea, the 'little Venice' of Scilla where the houses seem to rise straight from the water, Nautilus - Taverna del…
• Lo Scoglio di Ulisse — Lo Scoglio di Ulisse is a seafood restaurant tucked into the heart of Chianalea, the fishermen's quarter of Scilla overlooking the Stretto…
• La Piccola Venezia - Pizzeria Bar Pub — La Piccola Venezia sits on Via Grotte, in the heart of Chianalea, the most enchanting district of Scilla, nicknamed Calabria's "little…
• Hotel Ristorante Palazzo Krataiis — In the centre of Scilla, a fishing village on the Costa Viola overlooking the Stretto di Messina (Strait of Messina), the Hotel Ristorante…
• Da Pippo — In the heart of Scilla, a fishing village on the Costa Viola overlooking the Strait of Messina (Stretto di Messina), Da Pippo is a…

Chianalea: dining on the water among fishermen

Chianalea is the gastronomic heart of Scilla, a fishing village where houses face directly onto the sea and restaurants seem suspended over the water. Here the day's catch reaches the table in its most authentic form: swordfish "alla ghiotta", anchovies, pasta with sea urchins and seafood. Dining on one of Chianalea's terraces, with waves lapping at the foundations and boats moored just metres away, is an unforgettable experience, especially at sunset when the light tints the Costa Viola sea violet.

Swordfish and Scilla's seafood cuisine

Scilla has for centuries been the capital of swordfish fishing, caught in the Strait of Messina with traditional spotting walkways. No surprise, then, that it is the absolute star of the table: from the classic "swordfish alla ghiotta" with capers, olives and tomato, to rolls and carpaccio. Alongside the king of the Strait, restaurants offer anchovies, amberjack, seafood spaghetti and fish starters. The quality of the produce, often locally sourced, makes every dish a genuine experience.

Marina Grande, trattorias and evening spots

Along the Marina Grande seafront, Scilla's main beach, restaurants, trattorias and bars line up where you can dine almost with your feet in the sand. The atmosphere here is livelier and more informal, ideal for families and groups. Besides fish, there are trattorias serving traditional Calabrian dishes, pizzerias and bars for an aperitif or after-dinner drink with a sea view. After dinner, a stroll towards Chianalea or the little harbour rounds off a Scilla evening.

Ruffo Castle and the old town, after the visit

Ruffo Castle sits on the promontory that splits the town in two: on one side Marina Grande with its beach, on the other Chianalea with its houses on the water. It is the point from which Scilla’s geography becomes clear at a glance, and the visit naturally ends by walking down one of the two slopes to eat.

The old centre around San Giorgio has a different character from the fishermen’s quarter: more tucked away, less exposed to summer through-traffic, with places that stay open even once the swimming season ends. Anyone arriving outside the warm months will find the steadiest choice here, whereas in Chianalea and along the seafront the offer is concentrated between spring and early autumn.

Pizza, takeaway and quick meals

A fish dinner in Chianalea is the experience people come to Scilla for, but not every evening calls for that. The town has pizzerias and places for a quick meal, concentrated above all in the upper part and along the road through San Giorgio, where parking is less of a problem than down by the water. In summer takeaway is much used: you eat on the beach or on the balcony of your accommodation, avoiding the waits at peak hours.

At midday the offer simplifies: in the warm months many places serve quick dishes and sandwiches to people coming up from the beach, while out of season the choice narrows and it is worth checking closing days before heading up into town.

Families, groups and anyone with specific needs

In Chianalea the shape of the hamlet conditions a great deal: the alleys are narrow and pedestrian, and the places facing the water often have small rooms and compact terraces. For a large group, or for anyone needing space for a pushchair or step-free access, it is best to ask in advance: availability varies a lot from one venue to another and cannot be inferred from the location.

The same goes for allergies and intolerances, coeliac disease, vegetarian options or children’s menus, and for whether dogs are welcome. Each listing carries these details alongside opening hours and contacts, but a phone call beforehand remains the safest route, especially on summer evenings when the kitchens are working flat out.

Frequently asked questions

Verified on 9/6/2026 · curated by Francesco De Giorgio